Thursday, September 19, 2013

Japan: Tokyo (Hamarikyu Gardens) (*)

The Hamarikyu Gardens is a large, traditionally styled garden at the mouth of the Sumida River which stands in stark contrast to the skyscrapers of the adjacent Shiodome District. Opened to the public on April 1, 1946, the garden has had several functions over the centuries. It was originally built as a feudal lord’s Tokyo residence and duck hunting grounds during the Edo Period (1603-1867), but later served as a strolling garden and as an imperial detached palace before eventually being opened to the public in its current form. Remnants from the past are still visible throughout the garden including several reconstructed duck hunting blinds, and the remains of an old moat and reconstructed rock wall.

Bird's eye view of Hamarikyu Gardens
Bird’s eye view of Hamarikyu Gardens
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Tokyo Tower, visible from the Hamarikyu Gardens
Tokyo Tower, visible from the Hamarikyu Gardens
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The seawater pond
The seawater pond
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The garden is divided into two major sections. The southern garden was where the residence of the feudal lord was once located. The northern garden was added later on. The park features a seawater pond (Shioiri Pond) which changes levels with the tides. Actually, Hamarikyu itself is surrounded by a seawater moat which is filled by the Tokyo Bay.

Hamarikyu Gardens layout
Hamarikyu Gardens layout
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Statue of a diety
Statue of a diety
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There is a teahouse (Nakajima no ochaya) on an island where visitors can rest, enjoy the scenery and partake in the various refreshments available, including matcha (Japanese green tea) and Japanese sweets served in a tea ceremony style.

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Teahouse
Teahouse
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Rainbow Bridge in Odiaba visible from Hamarikyu Gardens
Rainbow Bridge in Odiaba visible from Hamarikyu Gardens

Hamarikyu is attractive in any season. Late February brings plum (ume) blossoms, while the spring cherry blossom season lasts from late March to early April. Several other species of flowers bloom in spring including fields of peony, cosmos and canola blossoms. Japanese falconry and aikido are demonstrated during the New Year. The garden is not as famous for its fall foliage as some of the other gardens around Tokyo but it does offer plenty of maple, ginkgo and other trees that display their beautiful autumn colors between late November and early December.

Hamarikyu Gardens - Summer
Hamarikyu Gardens – Summer
Hamarikyu Gardens - Fall
Hamarikyu Gardens – Fall
Hamarikyu Gardens - Spring
Hamarikyu Gardens – Spring


Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Japan: Tokyo (Sumida River) (*)

The Sumida River flows through Tokyo, running 17 miles (27 kilometers) around the city and passing under 26 bridges. It branches from the Arakawa River at Iwabuchi and flows into Tokyo Bay. The river is a great place to go on a boat cruise passing under the colorful bridges, viewing the Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Tower, going past Shinto shrines, and getting closer to Tokyo’s river born heritage where the vibrant river systems served as the arteries through which its commerce flowed, from the Edo period to the present day.

One of many floating restaurants on the river where patrons can sit on tatami enjoying good food & drink
One of many floating restaurants on the river where patrons can sit on tatami enjoying good food & drink
Tokyo Tower from the Sumida River
Tokyo Tower from the Sumida River

We took advantage of the river cruise while visiting Asakusa where we sailed down the river to the Hamarikyu Gardens.  Alternatively, you can cruise across Tokyo Bay, traveling from old-fashioned Asakusa to the modern amusements of the manmade island of Odaiba. Tokyo Cruise Ship Company offers various types of cruises: http://www.suijobus.co.jp/index.html.

Tokyo Cruise Ship Company boarding area on the Sumida River
Tokyo Cruise Ship Company boarding area on the Sumida River
The Himiko Water Bus which sails to Odaiba
The Himiko Water Bus which sails to Odaiba
Our boat which sailed down the river and to Hamarikyu Gardens
Our boat which sailed down the river and to Hamarikyu Gardens
Inside the boat
Inside the boat
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The Tokyo Skytree and  the Asahi Beer buildings along the Sumida River
The Tokyo Skytree and the Asahi Beer buildings along the Sumida River

Among Sumida’s 26 bridges, the principal ones include:

The Ryogoku Bridge: The present bridge dates back to 1932, having replaced a bridge built in 1659. This bridge was immortalized many times by Utagawa Hiroshige a well-known Japanese Ukiyoe artist.

Hiroshige's work
Hiroshige’s work

The Nihon Bridge:  Dates back to the 17th century and was called the Edo Bridge during the Edo period. The bridge does not actually cross the Sumida River. It crosses the Nihonbashi River, about 1 kilometer west of the Sumida.

Nihon Bridge
Nihon Bridge

The Eitai Bridge: Dates back to 1924 when it replaced a bridge that was constructed there in 1696.

Eitai Bridge
Eitai Bridge

The Senju Bridge: Dates back to 1921 and replaced a bridge constructed in 1594 which had served as the only bridge across the river for a long period of time.

The Sakura Bridge: Is one of the newer bridges and dates back to only 1985.

The Kototoi Bridge: Dates back to 1928 and was reconstructed at the location of the bridge which originally linked two nearby temples—the Mimeguri-Jinja and the Matsuchiyama-shoden.

Kototoi Bridge
Kototoi Bridge

The Azuma Bridge: Dates back to 1931 and  replaced the bridge which stood at that location since 1774. This bridge is closest to the Asakusa Station and the Kaminari Gate.

Azuma Bridge
Azuma Bridge

The Komagata Bridge: Dates back to 1927 and takes its name from the Matsugata temple dedicated to the patron goddess of horses.

Komagata Bridge
Komagata Bridge

The Umaya Bridge: Dates back to 1929 and replaced the bridge that was built in 1875.

Umaya Bridge
Umaya Bridge

The Kuramae Bridge: Dates back to 1927 and is 570 ft. long and 70 ft. wide. It includes six traffic lanes and wide sidewalks. Large stone piers support the arches and the bridge decks.

Kuramae Bridge
Kuramae Bridge

The Shin Ohashi: Dates back to 1976 and replaced the bridge that was originally built in 1693.

Shin Ohashi
Shin Ohashi

The Kiyosu Bridge:  Dates back to 1928 and is modeled after the Deutz Suspension Bridge in Cologne, Germany.

Kiyosu Bridge
Kiyosu Bridge

The Chuo Bridge: Was constructed in 1994 and is the newest of all of the bridges which cross the Sumida River.

Chuo Bridge
Chuo Bridge

The Tsukuda Bridge: Dates back to 1964 and was the first bridge built after World War II, crossing the river from the Tsukiji to Tsukishima.

Tsukuda Bridge
Tsukuda Bridge

The Kachidoki Bridge: Dates back to 1940 and was constructed to commemorate the victory of the Japanese Army at Lushun during the Russo-Japanese War. This bridge is the only drawbridge on the Sumida River however it has not been raised since 1970.

Kachidoki Bridge
Kachidoki Bridge
The Sumida Park Riverside Gallery just next door to the Tokyo Cruise Ship Company
The Sumida Park Riverside Gallery just next door to the Tokyo Cruise Ship Company
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Tokyo's unique architecture
Tokyo’s unique architecture
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Each year on the last Saturday in July, The Sumidagawa Fireworks Festival takes place. The festival is a revival of the celebrations that were held during the Edo period. Similar events take place at same time of year at other locations throughout Japan. The great summer festival atmosphere that accompanies the fireworks draws close to a million celebrants, many of whom are dressed in yukatas.  Folks stroll around in Asakusa, especially around Sensoji Temple, and patronize the food vendors and game stalls lining the streets. In addition, many of restaurants in the area provide outdoor seating where you can enjoy delicious food while watching the fireworks.

The best places to view the fireworks display are right along the Sumida River itself. One area stretches from the Sakura Bridge to the Kototoi Bridge while another is located downstream of the Komagata Bridge to the Umaya Bridge.

Monday, September 16, 2013

Japan: Tokyo (Ginza) (*)

Today, many people know that the Ginza district in Tokyo is home to many upscale shopping, dining and entertainment venues. But before one square meter of land in the district’s center became valued at well over ten million yen, Ginza was a swamp which was filled in during the 16th century. Its name is derived from the silver coin mint established there in 1612 during the Edo period. (Ginza means silver mint in Japanese.)

The famous Ginza District of Tokyo
The famous Ginza District of Tokyo
Ginza sparkles at night
Ginza sparkles at night

A fire destroyed most of the area in 1872 from which point the Meiji government designated Ginza as an area for modernization. The government planned the construction of fireproof European-style brick buildings and larger and improved streets connecting the Shimbashi Station to the Tsukiji and important government buildings. In 1873, a Western-style shopping promenade on the street from the Shinbashi Bridge to the Kyobashi Bridge was completed. It wasn’t until after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 that Ginza developed into the upscale shopping district it is known for today.

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Most of the European-style buildings have disappeared over the years, but some of the older buildings still remain. The most prominent being the Wako building with its iconic Hattori Clock Tower. The building and clock tower were originally built by Kintaro Hattori, the founder of Seiko.

The historic Wako building with its iconic Hattori Clock Tower
The historic Wako building with its iconic Hattori Clock Tower
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Having evolved into a prominent outpost of western luxury shops in recent years, Ginza is a popular destination on weekends, when the central Chuo Dori Street is closed to traffic. The traffic blockade began in the 1960s under Governor Ryokichi Minobe. The closure takes place from 2:00 PM to 5:00 PM on Saturdays and from 12:00 PM to 5:00 PM on Sundays (until 6:00 PM from April-September). Here shoppers and tourists can find the infamous $10 cups of coffee and virtually every leading brand name in fashion and cosmetics.

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The famous, upscale Mitsukoshi Department Store
The famous, upscale Mitsukoshi Department Store
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Ginza Café on Fourth Street
Ginza Café on Fourth Street
Even in Ginza, plastic displays of menu offerings prevail
Even in Ginza, plastic displays of menu offerings prevail
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A trendy tourist destination, you will find many tour buses crowding the already congested streets of Ginza
A trendy tourist destination, you will find many tour buses crowding the already congested streets of Ginza
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Aside from the shopping and dining, another popular destination in Ginza is the Kabuki-za, the famous Kabuki Theater and the premier theater in Tokyo for the traditional Kabuki drama.
The original Kabuki-za was a wooden structure that came into being in 1889. It was destroyed and rebuilt several times due to fires, earthquakes and World War II raids. The current Kabuki-za underwent a transformation beginning April 30th 2010 where the façade was retained but a 29-story modern building was added to house the theater and commercial office space. The theater was reopened to the public on April 2, 2013.

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